When Netsanet Sori left Ethiopia, she did not leave behind the traditions that shaped her. Now, thousands of miles north in the Shetland Islands, she is pouring that heritage into every cup she serves.
A New Chapter in the Northern Isles
Sori arrived in Shetland after a journey that took her from the highlands of Ethiopia to one of the most remote archipelagos in the United Kingdom. She settled in Lerwick, the islands' main town, and opened a coffee business that reflects the ceremony and flavour of her homeland. The move was not impulsive. Friends and former neighbours in Addis Ababa had encouraged her to share what she knew.
"I wanted people here to understand what Ethiopian coffee really is," Sori told local media in Shetland. The statement reflected a motivation shared by many diaspora entrepreneurs: to correct misconceptions and offer an authentic alternative to what the wider market provides.
Ethiopia and the Global Coffee Story
Ethiopia is widely recognised as the birthplace of coffee. The plant originated in the country's highlands, and generations of farmers there have cultivated varieties prized by roasters worldwide. Coffee remains one of Ethiopia's largest exports, generating revenue that supports millions of households in rural areas.
For Sori, coffee was not merely a commodity. In Ethiopia, preparing coffee carries social weight. The traditional ceremony, known as the coffee ritual, involves roasting green beans in front of guests, brewing in a clay pot called a jebena, and serving in small rounds. It can take hours and serves as a marker of hospitality and community.
What Sori Brought to Shetland
That ritual is now available in Lerwick. Sori imports green beans directly from suppliers she knows in the Yirgacheffe and Sidamo regions, two areas famous for their flavour profiles. She roasts and grinds on-site, a process she learned in Addis Ababa's markets and small-batch roasting rooms.
The response has been measured but growing. Regulars at her shop describe the flavour as unlike anything else available on the islands. Word has spread beyond Lerwick, drawing visitors from other parts of Shetland.
The Economic Reality for Immigrants in Rural Britain
Sori's venture operates against a backdrop of limited options for immigrants settling in remote UK regions. Shetland's population is small, and the economy depends heavily on fishing, oil, and public services. Starting a business in food and hospitality requires navigating licensing rules, import regulations, and supply chain challenges that differ from urban centres.
She has managed these hurdles by building relationships with local suppliers and relying on a personal network that spans two countries. The approach is common among diaspora business owners: compensating for limited institutional support with direct relationships and hard work.
Cultural Exchange in a Small Community
The shop functions as more than a commercial enterprise. It has become a point of contact for Shetland residents curious about Ethiopian culture. Sori hosts informal sessions where customers can watch the roasting process and ask questions about how coffee is grown, processed, and prepared in Ethiopia.
Local reactions have been largely positive. Some customers have begun traveling to Ethiopia for work or study and report that the shop gave them a reference point they had not expected to find at home. Others simply appreciate the quality of the product.
Looking Ahead
Sori is planning to expand her offerings. She has begun importing teff, an ancient grain native to Ethiopia, and experimenting with injera flatbread, a staple of Ethiopian cuisine. If the pilot programme succeeds, she intends to add the bread to her regular menu by spring.
The broader question for Sori and others like her is sustainability. Rural food businesses often struggle with the economics of small-volume imports. Whether she can maintain the quality of her ingredients while covering higher shipping costs will determine the long-term shape of the enterprise. Readers watching Shetland's food scene should expect updates from Lerwick in the coming months as the trial runs its course.
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Starting a business in food and hospitality requires navigating licensing rules, import regulations, and supply chain challenges that differ from urban centres.She has managed these hurdles by building relationships with local suppliers and relying on a personal network that spans two countries. She has begun importing teff, an ancient grain native to Ethiopia, and experimenting with injera flatbread, a staple of Ethiopian cuisine.
